New York Times, Hungry City

Order skate at SakaMai, and what arrives is not a frond of delicate flesh but a stack of broken wings, still threaded with cartilage and lustrous as capiz shells. They are corrugated and chewy, having been dried like jerky and broiled until the edges are curled to ocher. In Japan, they would appear with mayonnaise, but here the dip is yogurt, silkier, its tang intensified by yuzu kosho, a swirl of lemon, salt and chile ...

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